selecting the right materials

quick introduction

brushes

roller pads/covers

roller frames

roller trays/tray liners

tape

caulk

caulk guns

putty knives/scrapers/razor blades

putty/spackle/drywall mud

texture

sandpaper

plastic

tarps

craft paper/carpet protector

extension poles

respirators/dust masks

roller spinners

ladders

cleaners

strippers

rags

plastic pails/Handy-Pail

primers

essential tools: hammer, screwdrivers, Allen wrenches, etc.

quick introduction

In this chapter, I will cover all of the materials that you will need to complete a painting project.

To start, it’s a good idea to think about where you are going to buy your supplies.

Large home improvement centers like Home Depot and Lowe’s have great prices, but if you are going to purchase from a specialized paint store, make sure you check the prices and don’t be afraid to ask for a discount.

Now you won't get a discount at Home Depot or Lowe’s, and probably not at True Value, Ace or other home improvement chains (never be afraid to ask though!), but you should get a discount at most smaller specialized paint stores.

If you don’t receive a break in the price and the prices are high, you should go somewhere else, and let the store know you are going somewhere else. There is a good chance they will try and work with you as they do want your business.

If you are on a tight budget, these items are the most significant:

quality paint
a great brush
great roller pads
super safe release tape

For the rest of your materials, you'll be fine with less expensive options. The four mentioned, however, are important for a quality paint job.

brushes

When you enter most paint departments, you will notice a plethora of brushes, all different sizes, and shapes.

I'm going to go into a little detail here about the differences between synthetic and natural bristle brushes, and the difference between a good brush and an inferior brush.

If you are on a budget, try to splurge on a nice brush, it makes a huge difference. If properly taken care of, a great brush will last years.

If you want to skip this, I specifically list which brushes I use below ("my brush selections").

natural vs. synthetic brushes

It's important to decide on the type of paint you are going to use before choosing a brush.

If you are going to use an oil based paint, you should choose a natural bristle (real animal hair) brush like a Chinese bristle brush. You do not want to use a natural bristle brush with water-based paints as the bristles will swell up and go limp.

For water based paints, it's best to use a synthetic brush like a nylon, or, preferably, a nylon/polyester blend brush. You can use a synthetic brush with oil based paints, but it may not apply the paint as smoothly as a natural bristle brush.

quality vs. inferior brushes

A quality paint brush will have flagged tips, meaning they have been machined so the tips of the bristles are much finer. These types of brushes will lay paint down much more smoothly than a big bristled brush.

Quality paint brushes will be held together with rivets where the ferrule (the metal holding the bristles) is attached to the handle. Inferior brushes will be pinched or stamped to attach the ferrule to the handle, which can cause the ferrule to come loose easier.

Quality paint brushes will have more bristles compared to cheaper brushes and those brushes will be manufactured in a way so as not to loose bristles over time.

Don't be afraid to pull the brushes out of their covers in the store and run your hand across them. A quality brush will feel much smoother at the tips.

Also, you don't want the bristles to be too stiff; they should have some firmness, but not so much that they don't move much.

brush sizes and shapes

Brushes come in a number of sizes and shapes.

I prefer angled sash brushes as they are a great all around brush. Squared off brushes are meant for trim work, but I never use them as I feel more comfortable with an angled brush.

I also find that a 2.5 inch brush works the best for me, but you can decide what works best for you. I think 3" and 4" brushes for general cutting in and trim work are just too big. Anything smaller than a 2.5" brush is just too small, hence my choice of a 2.5" brush.

my brush selections

First, and most importantly, is a quality 2.5” diagonal, nylon/polyester blend, sash brush.

I use a Purdy 2.5" XL Dale brush, my favorite by far. I use this brush for about 99% of my work.

The second is a small artist's brush as it's great for getting into really tight, small areas.

Finally, I use small foam brushes. I will use these to apply small amounts of stain blocking primer; then, let the brushes dry out, and throw them away.

roller pads/covers, roller frames, and roller trays

roller pads/covers

Roller pads, or covers, are available in a variety of lengths and nap sizes. The most common length is 9". As for nap sizes, the most popular sizes are ¼," 3/8," 1/2," ¾," and 1”.

Generally, the smaller the nap, the less paint it will hold but the smoother the finish will be. Thicker naps are usually used over rougher surfaces, but can also be used to create a stipple (light texture) with the paint over a smooth surface.

I use a ½” roller nap for almost all my rolling needs as it holds more paint, which means fewer times I need to load it up with paint. It’s great for going over textured surfaces, and on smooth drywall, it creates a light texture which helps hide small imperfections.

It’s essential that you purchase a quality roller pad as it will hold more paint and apply the paint more uniformly.

Inexpensive roller pads tend to lose their nap, which might eventually wind up in your paint, then on your walls.

One way to check a roller pad is to take it and slide/rub your hand down tightly on the pad. Note if the nap, or fuzz, starts to come off. You will also notice a higher quality pad has a thicker feel to it, a sign of quality.

For small areas like behind a toilet water tank, I will use creeper roller pads. They are narrower, great for tight spaces. I always match the nap size of the creeper pad to the nap size I am using on my 9" pad.

roller frames

Roller frames come in a variety of sizes and quality.

I recommend a 9" frame, not the cheapest one, but you certainly don't need the most expensive one. If you compare the cheap, lightweight ones with the next cost level up, you'll notice the latter frame is a bit heavier and feels a little better in your hands.

I also use creeper roller frames; they are smaller and meant to fit in tight areas.

roller trays/tray liners

Roller trays are available in plastic and metal and can be shallow or deep.

I prefer plastic, deeper trays as they hold more paint. I also like the plastic as they are more comfortable to handle when you use them and when you clean them out.

If you decide to use a metal tray, be careful if you need to clean it out in a porcelain or stainless steel sink; because it is metal, it could scratch those surfaces, especially the two small feet that hold up the narrow end of the tray.

To keep the tray clean while painting, you might consider purchasing a tray liner. The liners come in varying sizes, so make sure the liner fits the tray properly.

When we get to the actual painting chapter, I will show you a way to line your tray with plastic. I prefer plastic as not only will it keep the tray clean, I can also use the plastic to wrap up the roller pad when I'm finished.

tape

Tapes come in a variety of types and sizes. I will run through a few of them quite quickly, but you can do all of your work with just two types; super safe release and masking tape. I use 3M's 1" and 1.5" Scotch Blue with "Edge-Lock" tape (the one with the orange core) and 1.5" masking tape (3M's 2020).

The main thing to think about is the adhesion level of the tape.

There are low, medium and high adhesion tapes.

The majority of the ones you will find in the store will be medium adhesion (the adhesion level should be noted on the tape packaging).

If you apply a medium adhesion tape to a freshly painted surface, you run a higher risk of pulling paint off when you pull the tape. For this reason, I only use low adhesion tapes on all of my delicate surfaces: any painted surface (old or new), wood floors, etc.

Painter's Mate and 3M's Blue Original cloth tapes are two examples of less expensive tapes, but they are medium adhesion so I never use them on an interior. Another reason I do not recommend them as they can be hard to remove especially if exposed to the sun.

Medium and high adhesion tapes should not be used on delicate surfaces (fresh paint, hardwood floors, etc.)

Frog Tape is a newer type of leak-proof tape. When you paint over the top of the tape, it releases it's PaintBlock Technology which is meant to keep the paint from leaking behind the tape.

In my experience, it works pretty well over a smooth surface, but not well over a textured surface.

I use 3 M's Edge-Lock safe release tape and seal it with paint, which works much better.

Make sure if you decide on Frog Tape, that you use the safe release (yellow) as the original version (green) has a medium adhesion level and may stick too well to the surface causing damage to the said surface when removed.

Also, if you use Frog Tape over a textured surface, try taking a wet rag and running it over the top of the tape, let it dry completely, then do your painting. It's not as foolproof as sealing the tape with paint, but it works much better than doing nothing.

I like 3M’s super safe release tape as it has a low adhesion level which means you can leave it on the surface longer. Super safe can be taped to a freshly painted surface (more than 24 hours after it dries) and you'll run a much lower risk of the paint peeling off onto the tape. It should be noted that this tape is relatively expensive; I recommend it because of the quality, ease of use and the lower risk it of paint damage once removed.

caulk

There are several different caulks, but I will focus on the ones used for any paint project.

The first is Painter’s caulk; it's usually an inexpensive Latex/Acrylic blend caulk. I find these tend to be chalky and challenging to use as it does not apply smoothly.

Next is an is an Acrylic/Silicone or Acrylic/Latex/Silicone blend. These Silicone blends are the ones you should use; they flow smoothly, are easy to use, and have more flexibility once cured.

Finally, there is a 100% Silicone-based caulk. It’s waterproof, very flexible, but is usually not paintable without using a special primer. It is most commonly used around sinks and tubs and should only be used in those situations.

There are also quick dry caulks. Be careful with these; as the top portion of the caulk will skim dry quickly, the area under the skim dried area may still be soft. If it's too soft underneath and you brush over it, it may break through the dried skim area and ruin the caulk job. I think it's best to let it dry at least 4 hours before painting, preferably overnight.

caulk guns

Inexpensive caulk guns have a clip on the end that you need to push in to stop the caulk from flowing; they are a pain, and I don't recommend them.

Dripless Caulk guns are great because once you pull your hand off the trigger, the caulk stops flowing.

It’s important to note here that sometimes when using a dripless gun, the caulk will not stop flowing. This is usually because there is air in the caulk tube itself and not the fault of the gun. Until the air is released from the tube, the caulk will keep flowing even when you pull your hand off the trigger. When the caulk expels the air (basically a farting noise), it usually means the air bubble has released. This will usually stop the caulk from flowing on its own unless there is another air bubble in the tube.

Some dripless guns can be fancy and expensive, so make sure you don't purchase the ones with all the bells and whistles.

putty knives/scrapers/razor blades

Putty knives come in a variety of sizes; I use a 2" flexible knife; a 6 in 1 blade; and every once in a while a 5" or 6" wide knife for apply mud. The 2" flexible blade is excellent for applying the spackle. I use the 6 in 1 for scraping because of its rigidity.

For scrapers, I exclusively use carbide blades. These are very sharp and take much longer to dull than a regular scraper. I use them for knocking down old paint runs and scraping paint.

For razors, I use box knives for cutting plastic and paper, and straight edge razors in a blade holder for scraping off paint from windows and glass.

putty/spackle/drywall mud

Let's start with the lightweight putty. I find applying these putties difficult; the putty will "roll" back out of the hole as you are using it. It's also more challenging to sand than a vinyl spackle; I prefer a spackle that's easy to sand.

Painter’s putty is ideal for wood but not for walls. It dries hard and difficult to sand but works well in areas where you need a putty with more durability (handrails, window sills).

There are spackling pastes out there, but they are a little gritty, can be a little difficult to use, and a bit harder to sand than painter's putty.

Vinyl spackling paste is my favorite by far; it applies smoothly, is easy to use, dries quickly, and sands easily. The best choice in my opinion, especially if you can find it, is Crawford’s Spackling Paste.

Drywall mud, or joint compound, is used for more significant drywall issues. It is inexpensive, easy to use, and sands easily.

texture

Spray textures that come in a can come in two basic types, water based and oil based. I find water based ones a bit of a pain to work with, and I'm never happy with the look once dried.

Fast drying oil based textures are great to work with, but they do have a powerful odor. Use plenty of ventilation when using them, and wearing a respirator would be ideal; not a dust mask. Both the water and oil based cans can be dialed in to create several texture sizes.

Another type of texture is mixed with the paint. These can be a little difficult to use if not blended well and can be a challenge to apply evenly.

Popcorn/textured ceilings. Some older homes have popcorn ceilings, but keep in mind is that if the house is old enough, the popcorn texture might have asbestos in it. If that is the case, you should be very careful not to disturb it. As long as it stays non-airborne, it will be fine. If you disturbed it, it is dangerous to be around.

There are popcorn ceiling textures on the market and take a bit of practice to apply correctly, but work well.

sandpaper

Sandpaper is available in several grits. The lower the number (grit), the rougher the sandpaper. Although there are others, sandpaper grits include 60, 80, 100, 120, 150, 180, 220, 320 and 400. I find that I can do most of my work with 100 and 150. I use the 100 to knock down dried paint runs and drips, and the 150 to do the final sanding. If you are going for a much smoother surface, then you will want to finish up with 180, then 220.

Sandpaper comes in several types, but the two most common are self-cleaning, which means the dust particles fall out of the sandpaper while using, so it won’t clog as quickly, and the standard.

I do the majority of my sanding by hand because I have much better control over the process. I will use a random or orbital sander only if I need to knock down a surface a lot.

You could also use sanding sponges, which are easier to hold on to and use. As you are working with the sanding sponge and as it starts to clog up, smack the block against something flat to help remove the sanding debris. Sanding sponges come in grits, and some are labeled Fine, Medium and Course.

For fine sanding, Sanding Sponge Pads are another option. These are great for round surfaces like balusters as they are quite flexible.

plastic

Plastic has changed over the past few years with the introduction of high-density plastic, most popular with professional painters. Thin, but quite durable, masking tape sticks to it well, and it comes in a reasonably sized box, 400’ x 9’ or 400' x 12.' I purchase the 400' x 12' almost exclusively.

.7 mil to 1 mil, use to be the plastic of choice before the introduction of the high density. If you wind up purchasing 9' x 12' plastic sheets, I would recommend purchasing the one mil products. The thin products in this scenario are usually like Saran Wrap, difficult to use.

2 – 6 mil (visqueen) is just too thick; it's hard to use, and masking tape does not stick well to it.

tarps

Tarps come in a variety of sizes and are composed of different materials. Be careful here as some tarps are not completely leak proof. They will handle paint splats just fine, but if you spill a gallon of paint, the paint may leak through.

This is a personal choice, but I rarely use tarps indoors. As I'm working and walking around on tarps, they may leave gaps exposing the floor. Loose tarps also might wind up pushed against the trim as your moving around, very annoying.

I prefer craft paper or plastic. I like to tape up my protection to the floor so when I'm working over it, it does not move around.

craft paper/carpet protector

Instead of using plastic on a hardware or tile floor, you could use craft paper. Craft paper comes a variety of sizes and types, but I find the best to be Red Rosin Paper.

Carpet protector is expensive, a bit of a pain to apply (gee, I make it so sound exciting to use), but is fantastic for covering and protecting the carpet. It has a sticky side and is about three mils thick which handles traffic and spills well.

extension poles

For rolling higher areas without having to use a ladder, extension poles are ideal.

You could buy a new or used one or, you could use the handle from a broom. Check to make sure you can take the handle off the broom and make sure it fits into the roller frame correctly.

If you are worried about getting paint on the broom handle, take some safe release tape and apply it to the handle to protect it.

Adjustable extension poles are great, but if you are on a budget, stores sell extension poles that look like a broom handle. They are available in a few lengths.

respirators and dust masks

When sanding or applying solvent-based paints or products, you should use a respirator to keep from inhaling the harmful vapors.

When doing light sanding, a dusk mask will work just fine as long as you are wearing it as directed.

roller spinner cleaner

I don’t use roller spinners, but they are great for cleaning roller pads and even brushes. The reason I do not use them is that it is time-consuming to clean a roller pad, I will simply purchase a new pad.

When cleaning either a roller pad or a brush with a roller spinner, it's best to use a deep sink or a garbage can lined with a garbage bag to catch the spraying water.

If you use the spinner to clean a brush, be careful not to spin the brush too hard as it can cause the bristles to splay out. To solve this, mold the brush back to its original shape and put it back in its cover.

ladders

So I won't go into too much detail here as it's pretty straight forward, but if you are working over a stairwell and are trying to figure out how to reach the ceiling or upper part of the stairwell walls, there are a couple of options. One is if you own or have access to a product like Little Giant. The legs can be adjusted to work on a set of stairs. Another way to go is to use a product like the Pivit Ladder Tool or ladder levelers.

cleaners

Goof-Off products are great for removing old or new paint, glue residue, etc., but keep in mind that they are full of solvents. You should take precautions like wearing a respirator and gloves. Also, make sure you test it in an inconspicuous area, as Goof Off can permanently dull a surface. There are also many safer products that can be used for removing paint.

TSP or Tri-sodium Phosphate is an excellent cleaner and will also de-gloss or “etch” the surface allowing the paint to stick better. As TSP is supposed to etch and clean the surface for painting, I still recommend doing a light sand.

Paint Thinner or Mineral Spirits: If you are using an oil based primer or paint you will need some paint thinner. Odorless paint thinner is a little more expensive, but the odor is much lower than regular paint thinners. Don’t be fooled by “Odorless” as it still has a slight stench.

General purpose cleaners will work just fine to clean off surfaces if you do not want to use TSP. If the surface is glossy, no matter what you use to clean, you should always do a light sand so the new paint has something to "bite."

strippers

Here are a couple of thoughts on strippers. The only time I use a "stripper" is for removing paint off of hardware. The safest, most effective way, is to remove the hardware and boil it in water mixed with baking soda or washing soda. I go into more detail in the last paragraph of this segment.

Just fyi:

The strongest chemical strippers are made with Methyl Chloride, which is dangerous. In March of 2019, the EPA decided to ban the sale of Methyl Chloride in products meant for consumers, but it won't take full effect until the end of 2019. As this product works well, I do not recommend it; not only can it burn your skin, it can cause dizziness and headaches, and prolonged use (even in the short term) can lead to much more serious health issues, including death. If you use it, make sure you wear chemical resistant gloves; an approved respirator; goggles to protect your eyes; and work in a well ventilated area.

There are now a number of safer strippers on the market, but to be honest, they do not have the stripping power of the Methyl Chloride products. If you decide to use one of these strippers, be prepared to do multiple applications to achieve the desired results.

If you need to strip existing paint off of your hardware, a great way to do that without using a stripper is to use baking soda, or preferably Arm and Hammer's Super Washing Soda. In an old pot, bring some water to a boil, then add some baking or washing soda. Add the hardware and allow the hardware to simmer in the solution for a few hours. Using some tongs, pull the hardware out, and with a nylon or brass brush, remove the loose paint. Repeat as necessary. This process will remove old oil and lead based paints, so make sure you take precautions to avoid breathing in the vapors. This process is much safer than using a chemical stripper and you'll find that it's easier to remove the paint residue. If you use the chemical stripper, it's much harder to remove the excess paint, even if the stripper says it's water soluble.

how to make washing soda

Washing Soda works better than the Baking Soda when it comes to removing old paint. If you do not have access to washing soda, you can easily make your own. Baking soda is Sodium Bi Carbonate, while Washing Soda is simply Sodium Carbonate. Take a baking sheet and preheat your oven to 400 degrees. Spread an 8oz box of Baking Soda onto the baking sheet and spread it out evenly. Put into the oven for 1 hour, making sure you stir the mixture up every 15 minutes. Allow to cool, then place in an airtight container to keep moisture out.

rags

I know it seems silly to talk about rags, but here I go. You can purchase rags or make your own. My recommendation is to use 100% cotton rags and not to use any kind of blended knits. 100% cotton absorb much better.

plastic pails/Handy-Pail

Plastic pails are a nice convenience over using your gallon of paint. You can pour off about a quarter of a gallon into the pail, which makes it easier to move around. If you purchase plastic pails, you should focus on the ones with a handle, much easier to carry around. Products like Handy-Pail are great and you can buy disposable liners for them. Handy-Pail also has a convenient magnet to hold your brush in place when the brush is not being used.

primers

For new drywall/spackle/mud, a PVA (Poly Vinyl Acrylic) is recommended. PVA is a highly pigmented primer meant to seal highly porous areas like new mud and spackle. If you were to apply your finish paint directly over mud and spackle without a primer, the finish paint would soak more into the more porous areas, and those areas would look flatter once the paint has dried. You could also use your paint to prime if it's a "Paint and Primer in One."

Undercoat or interior wood primer is best for bare wood.

Stain-blocking primers are used for blocking stains from coming through the finish paint. Be careful here as latex stain blocking primers are not great for blocking stains. If you decide to use them, make sure you let them dry 24 hours, so it completely dries before applying the next coat. Oil and Shellac based stain blocking primers work well to stop stains and, in many cases, will stick well to glossy surfaces (I will still always still recommend a quick sand over shiny, glossy surfaces).

tools

So here are several tools that you may need on a painting project:

Screwdrivers, regular and Philips; an interchangeable, four in one screwdriver is a great choice

Power/cordless drill

Allen wrenches are great for removing hardware like specific towel racks or curtain hardware

Super small straight screwdriver; sometimes older hardware, especially old bathroom hardware, have small screws instead of Allen screws

Hammer

Nail punch in case you run across a nail sticking out somewhere

Socket for removing blind hardware

Dusting brush; I use an old paint brush, make sure it's soft

Vacuum cleaner or a Shop-Vac, make sure the Shop Vac is kept clean. I would not recommend using in-home vacuum systems as it could clog up the system.

Sharpie for labeling

Please help me maintain this site by donating! Thank you!

selecting the right materials

quick introduction

In this chapter, I will cover all of the materials that you will need to complete a painting project.

To start, it’s a good idea to think about where you are going to buy your supplies.

Large home improvement centers like Home Depot and Lowe’s have great prices, but if you are going to purchase from a specialized paint store, make sure you check the prices and don’t be afraid to ask for a discount.

Now you won't get a discount at Home Depot or Lowe’s, and probably not at True Value, Ace or other home improvement chains (never be afraid to ask though!), but you should get a discount at most smaller specialized paint stores.

If you don’t receive a break in the price and the prices are high, you should go somewhere else, and let the store know you are going somewhere else. There is a good chance they will try and work with you as they do want your business.

If you are on a tight budget, these items are the most significant:

quality paint

a great brush

great roller pads

super safe release tape

For the rest of your materials, you'll be fine with less expensive options. The four mentioned, however, are important for a quality paint job.

brushes

When you enter most paint departments, you will notice a plethora of brushes, all different sizes, and shapes.

I'm going to go into a little detail here about the differences between synthetic and natural bristle brushes, and the difference between a good brush and an inferior brush.

If you are on a budget, try to splurge on a nice brush, it makes a huge difference. If properly taken care of, a great brush will last years.

If you want to skip this, I specifically list which brushes I use below ("my brush selections").

natural vs. synthetic brushes

It's important to decide on the type of paint you are going to use before choosing a brush.

If you are going to use an oil based paint, you should choose a natural bristle (real animal hair) brush like a Chinese bristle brush. You do not want to use a natural bristle brush with water-based paints as the bristles will swell up and go limp.

For water based paints, it's best to use a synthetic brush like a nylon, or, preferably, a nylon/polyester blend brush. You can use a synthetic brush with oil based paints, but it may not apply the paint as smoothly as a natural bristle brush.

quality vs. inferior brushes

A quality paint brush will have flagged tips, meaning they have been machined so the tips of the bristles are much finer. These types of brushes will lay paint down much more smoothly than a big bristled brush.

Quality paint brushes will be held together with rivets where the ferrule (the metal holding the bristles) is attached to the handle. Inferior brushes will be pinched or stamped to attach the ferrule to the handle, which can cause the ferrule to come loose easier.

Quality paint brushes will have more bristles compared to cheaper brushes and those brushes will be manufactured in a way so as not to loose bristles over time.

Don't be afraid to pull the brushes out of their covers in the store and run your hand across them. A quality brush will feel much smoother at the tips.

Also, you don't want the bristles to be too stiff; they should have some firmness, but not so much that they don't move much.

brush sizes and shapes

Brushes come in a number of sizes and shapes.

I prefer angled sash brushes as they are a great all around brush. Squared off brushes are meant for trim work, but I never use them as I feel more comfortable with an angled brush.

I also find that a 2.5 inch brush works the best for me, but you can decide what works best for you. I think 3" and 4" brushes for general cutting in and trim work are just too big. Anything smaller than a 2.5" brush is just too small, hence my choice of a 2.5" brush.

my brush selections

First, and most importantly, is a quality 2.5” diagonal, nylon/polyester blend, sash brush.

I use a Purdy 2.5" XL Dale brush, my favorite by far. I use this brush for about 99% of my work.

The second is a small artist's brush as it's great for getting into really tight, small areas.

Finally, I use small foam brushes. I will use these to apply small amounts of stain blocking primer; then, let the brushes dry out, and throw them away.

roller pads/covers, roller frames, and roller trays

roller pads/covers

Roller pads, or covers, are available in a variety of lengths and nap sizes. The most common length is 9". As for nap sizes, the most popular sizes are ¼," 3/8," 1/2," ¾," and 1”.

Generally, the smaller the nap, the less paint it will hold but the smoother the finish will be. Thicker naps are usually used over rougher surfaces, but can also be used to create a stipple (light texture) with the paint over a smooth surface.

I use a ½” roller nap for almost all my rolling needs as it holds more paint, which means fewer times I need to load it up with paint. It’s great for going over textured surfaces, and on smooth drywall, it creates a light texture which helps hide small imperfections.

It’s essential that you purchase a quality roller pad as it will hold more paint and apply the paint more uniformly.

Inexpensive roller pads tend to lose their nap, which might eventually wind up in your paint, then on your walls.

One way to check a roller pad is to take it and slide/rub your hand down tightly on the pad. Note if the nap, or fuzz, starts to come off. You will also notice a higher quality pad has a thicker feel to it, a sign of quality.

For small areas like behind a toilet water tank, I will use creeper roller pads. They are narrower, great for tight spaces. I always match the nap size of the creeper pad to the nap size I am using on my 9" pad.

roller frames

Roller frames come in a variety of sizes and quality.

I recommend a 9" frame, not the cheapest one, but you certainly don't need the most expensive one. If you compare the cheap, lightweight ones with the next cost level up, you'll notice the latter frame is a bit heavier and feels a little better in your hands.

I also use creeper roller frames; they are smaller and meant to fit in tight areas.

roller trays/tray liners

Roller trays are available in plastic and metal and can be shallow or deep.

I prefer plastic, deeper trays as they hold more paint. I also like the plastic as they are more comfortable to handle when you use them and when you clean them out.

If you decide to use a metal tray, be careful if you need to clean it out in a porcelain or stainless steel sink; because it is metal, it could scratch those surfaces, especially the two small feet that hold up the narrow end of the tray.

To keep the tray clean while painting, you might consider purchasing a tray liner. The liners come in varying sizes, so make sure the liner fits the tray properly.

When we get to the actual painting chapter, I will show you a way to line your tray with plastic. I prefer plastic as not only will it keep the tray clean, I can also use the plastic to wrap up the roller pad when I'm finished.

tape

The main thing to think about is the adhesion level of the tape.

There are low, medium and high adhesion tapes.

The majority of the ones you will find in the store will be medium adhesion (the adhesion level should be noted on the tape packaging).

If you apply a medium adhesion tape to a freshly painted surface, you run a higher risk of pulling paint off when you pull the tape. For this reason, I only use low adhesion tapes on all of my delicate surfaces: any painted surface (old or new), wood floors, etc.

Painter's Mate and 3M's Blue Original cloth tapes are two examples of less expensive tapes, but they are medium adhesion so I never use them on an interior. Another reason I do not recommend them as they can be hard to remove especially if exposed to the sun.

Medium and high adhesion tapes should not be used on delicate surfaces (fresh paint, hardwood floors, etc.)

Frog Tape is a newer type of leak-proof tape. When you paint over the top of the tape, it releases it's PaintBlock Technology which is meant to keep the paint from leaking behind the tape.

In my experience, it works pretty well over a smooth surface, but not well over a textured surface.

I use 3 M's Edge-Lock safe release tape and seal it with paint, which works much better.

Make sure if you decide on Frog Tape, that you use the safe release (yellow) as the original version (green) has a medium adhesion level and may stick too well to the surface causing damage to the said surface when removed.

Also, if you use Frog Tape over a textured surface, try taking a wet rag and running it over the top of the tape, let it dry completely, then do your painting. It's not as foolproof as sealing the tape with paint, but it works much better than doing nothing.

caulk

There are several different caulks, but I will focus on the ones used for any paint project.

The first is Painter’s caulk; it's usually an inexpensive Latex/Acrylic blend caulk. I find these tend to be chalky and challenging to use as it does not apply smoothly.

Next is an is an Acrylic/Silicone or Acrylic/Latex/Silicone blend. These Silicone blends are the ones you should use; they flow smoothly, are easy to use, and have more flexibility once cured.

Finally, there is a 100% Silicone-based caulk. It’s waterproof, very flexible, but is usually not paintable without using a special primer. It is most commonly used around sinks and tubs and should only be used in those situations.

caulk guns

Inexpensive caulk guns have a clip on the end that you need to push in to stop the caulk from flowing; they are a pain, and I don't recommend them.

Dripless Caulk guns are great because once you pull your hand off the trigger, the caulk stops flowing.

Some dripless guns can be fancy and expensive, so make sure you don't purchase the ones with all the bells and whistles.

putty knives/scrapers/razor blades

Putty knives come in a variety of sizes; I use a 2" flexible knife; a 6 in 1 blade; and every once in a while a 5" or 6" wide knife for apply mud. The 2" flexible blade is excellent for applying the spackle. I use the 6 in 1 for scraping because of its rigidity.

For scrapers, I exclusively use carbide blades. These are very sharp and take much longer to dull than a regular scraper. I use them for knocking down old paint runs and scraping paint.